#24: My Paris List (Part 2)

Old + new school French, fish spatulas, plus my to-go list.

Call it serendipity or credit it the subconscious: I didn’t plan on sending out this email during Paris Fashion Week, but my recommendations seem to be reaching some of you at a good time.

Several friends say they’re visiting now or in the weeks ahead, so I’m hoping the advice below comes in handy — whether that means you depart toting a multi-pack of Embryolisse, having survived the city’s most chaotic pharmacy, or having experienced the pleasure of a sumptuous steak in a warmly lit dining room.

Old School French Restaurants

• Astier: In September 2021, Ivan and I walked into Astier for a pre-flight lunch; he’d requested a bistro and it was a stone’s throw from our hotel. We had an incredible meal: steak au poivre for him, and chicken (or fowl) swimming in morel sauce for me, plus two glasses of a delicious white that our very kind waiter recommended. It was exactly what we wanted but made leaving Paris harder than usual; French food comas pack a punch.

• Bistrot Paul Bert: You’ve either dined here already or seen photos of their plates on your feed — maybe mine. The tables are a pain to reserve (just keep calling, and I think it helps to do so during opening hours), but it’s worth it. Having tried the sharing steak, I’d say the steak frites are still the best thing. The last time we visited, our neighbouring table of French septuagenarians shared their wine with us — by this point in my trip my body was disagreeing with French food but how does one say no?