#27: Days Off in Kyoto

X marks the spot for mystery matcha sweets, zen gardens and whimsically wonky ceramics.

Penning these lists is like living vicariously through my past self, and I’ll enjoy this week’s writing all the more as Kyoto was easily my favourite part of the trip.

It was, in a way, the true holiday portion of the three weeks I spent in Japan — the post-fashion week weekend and last two nights we spent in Tokyo were technically work-free but it was in Kyoto that I felt calmer, less mentally encumbered by incoming deadlines and the prospect of returning to a home base bereft of affordable food on sticks, or just affordable food full stop.

If a lucky family member or friend is visiting Japan soon, make their planning a little easier and share this with them (then request hojicha as a thank you). You could also gift them a subscription so they gain access to past and future travel maps, ramblings and favourites lists.

As per last week, a Google Map containing all my favourite places will be yours at the end of this dispatch.

Restaurants, Bars

From dinner at Matsumoto Sakaba

• Matsumoto Sakaba: An accident (we turned up to a closed restaurant, and it transpired that our hotel accidentally booked a similarly named sushi spot) took a happy turn when our bartender sent us to his favourite post-service izakaya, which is hard to spot even with the moon-like paper lantern guarding its sliding door. We were sat next to a trio of merry businessmen, who proceeded to treat us to food and sake before steering us through the Japanese-only menu. Fresh sashimi; sizzling chicken gizzards; the best kara-age of the trip; smoky seared sea bream; grilled onigiri — pure joy, and sushi wasn’t missed.